Appenzell, Aescher, Appenzell; Happy Trails! – Day 42

We left our fairy god-sent parents on the morning of the 10th to head off to Appenzell. We woke up at a nice early 6am so we could bring Erika to Solothurn to help her set up her stand – she sells beautiful hand-made jewellery. 

Roland brought us to the train station to make sure we got on the right train okay. We hugged him and waved goodbye as we made our way to Appenzell. 

We rolled into Appenzell at about 12pm. It was even quieter then the mountains in Zermatt. It was actually a ghost town.. Barely anything was open and there were almost no people at all!  To get ourselves organized as we made our way to our Airbnb we stopped at a cute cafe to grab directions and a coffee. As we made our way we took in the town of Appenzell – beautiful fairtale-like buildings painted in all different colours with cute shutters and lacy curtains pinned to the sides of the interior so that occupants could see the rolling hills. The landscape seems like a movie set. There is green grass covering everything that is not a building – it almost looks like it’s a golf course with little houses all over. Our Airbnb is beautiful – we have a stunning view of the town and the mountains that preceed the gentle green rolling hills. 

In the afternoon Rachel and I took the bikes that the host lent to us and biked around the town to just explore. Rachel is an avid biker – like her whole family lives and breathes biking, they even own a really cool indoor bike park in Markham, Ontario. Having said this, I am an outdoor active person but I know nothing about bikes so as Rachel pedalled her way through Switzerland like a bee in its natural habitat finding a new patch of flowers to hop around, I wheezed slowly behind trying to keep up and take in gorgeous surroundings. It was beautiful and a good workout!

Post bike ride we had pizza and beer and called it a night! 

The next morning we had a yummy breakfast and coffee and hiked to Wasserausen. This is the town that has the cable cars which bring people up to the hotel we were staying at in the mountains. Thankfully our Airbnb hosts offered to hold onto Nel and Des so that we could hike up to the hotel with smaller bags and avoid paying the 20 franc to use the lift. Mid hike we hit a lovely snow storm which was pretty cool and pretty cold. 

2 hours later we arrive at the destination: Berggathaus Aescher – recommended by Wayne and National Geographics 250 Destinations of a Lifetime. 

For those who don’t know, Rachel and I basically planned out entire time in Europe around spending one night in this place. Let me tell you it was sooo worth it. If you happen to be in Schwiez – check it out. It is a restaurant/hotel that is family run and literally on the side of a mountain – just tucked right in there. It’s barely got any heating, there are no showers, and it’s pretty isolated but the food is fantastic, the view is magical, and the people are incredible warm.

 You could even see the mountains from our bedroom window! 

We ate soup, Rosti which is a Swiss specialty (basically hashbrowns but better) and had a meringue dessert. It was delicious to say the least. 

The next morning we got up early for a free breakfast (I had 3 cups of coffee) and watched the sunrise. This is my bottle it up moment – my moment where I walked outside took in a deep breath of fresh mountain air and thought “damn, if it doesn’t get better than this, that’s okay with me”.  It was just… Yeah. No words. 

Rach shredded her ankle on her hiking boots on her way up the mountain but she was a trooper – she’s bandaged up her ankles and hiked further up the mountain with me until we were above the clouds and in ankle deep snow. We hiked our way up to the top of the mountain that housed our little inn – almost 2000m above sea-level. Frozen with little red Rudolph noses we could not have been happier. 

On our way down the mountain we stopped at a lake recommended by our host which was really cool. It was so clear you could see the reflection of the mountain in it. We sat here for about 10 minutes just looking at it. 

We took the train back to Appenzell – the walk from Wasserausen to Appenzell was close to 2 hours and we didn’t want to make Rachel’s ankles worse. We stopped in a little shop on the way home and both of us invested in beautiful wooly Swiss scarves that are fleecy and warm (splurge but necessary!). We also stopped at the grocery store and bought ingredients to make the most indulgent grilled cheese (it was no Cheesus Murphy but it was pretty damn good). 

We made some coffee, each had a hot shower to wash off that mountain mud, and now I am sitting on my bed in our cozy little Airbnb with a view of the mountains that we climbed. I am so proud of us. I am so incredibly happy. I am in just this little mountain bubble of warm hugs, wooly scarves, coffee, chocolate and cheese and I never want to leave. 

We’ve got tonight and one more night tomorrow with our fairy God-sent mother’s sister who lives about 30 minutes from here. Sad to leave but also won’t mind a little break from the expensive cost of existing in Switzerland…

Sending all my love from the Swiss Alps.❤️


One thought on “Appenzell, Aescher, Appenzell; Happy Trails! – Day 42

  1. Hi Nicole, w are so happy for you, indulging in your warm bubble of mountain bliss. Can tell that you are both feeling so exhilarated by your travel experiences, and these forever memories. Can you understand now why we want to do it again in our fifties, ha!ha! We toasted to you and Mike at Thanksgiving. Love and miss you, enjoy.
    Bev, Mike & Evan

    Liked by 1 person

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